PANDORA WHITE SWISS SHEPHERDS
NEW OWNERS INFORMATION
Have a new puppy or on the way? Here you will find everything you need to know to get started with this new friend by your side
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Have a fully fenced area for your pup, where he can stay safely without escaping
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Collar and Lead - An adjustable collar 20-30cm with a clip (click-close) will fit most puppies. After 3 months, a harness or fabric slip lead is a useful when walking your puppy.
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A dogbed or mat, which will be a safe and quiet place for your pup. Start with an inexpensive dog bed as most puppies will chew on it and damage it.
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Dog bowls: one stainless steel bowl for food and one heavy stone bowl for water (that can’t be picked up or tipped over by puppy)
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Puppy toys: strong, good quality dog toys like kong, solid ball, tug rope
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Wire training cage: it’s not a must but it is very handy to have a cage where the pup is safe and can be left unattended, it is also a great help towards toilet training. Buy one as large and as sturdy as possible as your pup will grow very fast
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Toilet area: think of an area where it is ok for your pup to go toilet, once you have appointed a place you can not blame him for going there, so think hard for a place that is also ok when your pup has become an adult dog
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Teeth cleaners: dried pigs/beef/lambs/deer ears are perfect for cleaning your pups teeth. Meaty soft bones, such as brisket bones large enough so your puppy can not swallow them whole, are also good teeth cleaners and will keep your puppy occupied for a while. As well as deer antlers, bull sticks and dried skin pieces. This is also excellent to get your puppy chewing on the right things instead of your furniture.
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Food: Start with the same food that we are feeding to prevent an upset tummy. We are feeding all our puppies Black Hawk Puppy Ocean Fish biscuits, mixed with some raw meat available at pet stores and online shops. Have the food ready before your puppy arrives. If you wish to transition your puppy to a different diet, slowly mix the new food in, starting with very small amounts. You should only do this once your puppy is full settled in his/her new home.
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Treats: when you want a pup that listens to his name and loves to learn, you will need treats to reward good behaviour and reward all attempts to get toilet trained.
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Bio-degrable Poo-bags to clean up after your pup
Preparing your home before the puppy arrives
What to bring when picking up your puppy
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Collar and lead - An adjustable collar 20-30cm with a clip (click-close) will fit most puppies.
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Wet wipes/tissues, bottle with water and plastic bag, in case your pup gets sick in the car
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Car harness, travelcage or towel to put on your lap, for the pup’s transport
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Old towels or bed sheets for under your puppy in case the puppy gets car sick
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Poo-bags to clean up after your pup when he goes for a toilet stop
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Dog bowl and water when the trip home is longer than an hour
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Airport pick up: bring Photo ID and reservation number
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Airport pick up is at National Cargo
The first days in the puppy's new home
When your puppy leaves the home they were born in at around 8 weeks of age, they are experiencing a huge change. Until now, they have never truly been alone. They have had their mother, littermates and familiar surroundings around them every day.
It is completely normal for your puppy to feel unsettled at first. They may cry, especially during the first few nights, and will be looking to you for warmth, comfort and reassurance. Try to understand why they are crying rather than becoming frustrated with them. This is not your puppy being difficult—they are simply adjusting to a completely new world.
At the same time, it is important to establish your boundaries from the beginning. Be clear, consistent and calm about what you expect from your puppy, while also being patient, reasonable and caring. Your puppy needs to learn that you are a safe and reliable leader they can trust.
Sleeping & the Training Crate
We hope you have chosen to have your White Swiss Shepherd as an inside family dog. A wire training crate can be an excellent way to help your puppy settle into their new home. It gives them their own safe space while allowing them to be part of family life, without giving them the opportunity to chew your slippers or have an accident on the carpet when you cannot supervise them.
Only use the crate when you cannot actively supervise your puppy, and make it a positive experience. Give them a small treat when they go into their crate and allow them to learn that it is a safe and comfortable place to be.
Don't worry about having the crate next to your bed during the first few nights. There is nothing wrong with your puppy being close to you while they adjust to their new surroundings. In fact, we have done this with our own puppies, and they have had no trouble moving to their own sleeping area after a week or two.
If Your Puppy Will Live Outside
If your dog is going to spend time outside, they need a properly insulated, draught-free kennel that is large enough for their adult size, with enough room to stand, turn around and move comfortably.
However, we would much rather see a White Swiss Shepherd spending their time in a garage, laundry or another suitable indoor area than being isolated outside, particularly when they are young. Being closer to the family provides warmth, security and the human interaction this breed needs.
A kennel should never be used as somewhere to leave your dog all day simply because you don't have time for them. White Swiss Shepherds are social, intelligent dogs who thrive on being part of the family. They need regular interaction, exercise, training and companionship.
Leaving Your Puppy Alone
When you do need to leave your puppy alone, make sure they are safe, secure and have access to fresh water. A crate or puppy-proofed area can help prevent them from getting into trouble while you are away.
When your puppy is inside, leaving a radio or television playing quietly can provide some familiar background noise and make the house feel less empty.
Remember that being alone is something your puppy needs to learn gradually. Start with short periods and slowly build up the amount of time they can comfortably spend alone. Don't expect an 8-week-old puppy to immediately cope with being left for long periods—they have spent their entire life surrounded by other dogs until now.
The first few days are about building trust, establishing routines and helping your puppy feel safe. Give them time, be consistent and enjoy getting to know each other.
What to feed your puppy
We feed our puppies Black Hawk Ocean fish Puppy biscuits, mixed with some raw meat bought from the pet store or online shop.
For teeth cleaners and chewing stimulants we give brisket bones large enough so the puppy can not swallow it whole, dried cow/pig/deer ears, deer antlers, bull sticks and dried skin pieces. All items are available in pet shops and online stores.
We also like to add a spray on probiotic on their raw food from Micromed. An NZ brand which supports the dogs gut health and overall wellbeing, as well as treating any stomach issues. Shepherds can have super sensitive stomachs and using this has been a huge help for ours.
Read more on their website and use PANDORA20, for 20% discount at checkout (also after first buy for our puppy buyers).
Where to buy?
Biscuits can be bought online at pet.co.nz but it is available in most pet shops.
We feed twice a day.
Whatever you want to feed your dog, remember a few things: a White Swiss Shepherd pup should be growing slowly and even. If you overfeed your pup, it might end up with hip and elbow problems.
An adult White Swiss Shepherd male should weigh 30 – 40 kg, an adult White Swiss Shepherd female should weigh 25 – 35 kg.
So when looking at your pup, it should be lean, not skinny and definitely not fat.
We recommend feeding your pup and adult dog, twice a day.
Coat and nail maintenance
When your pup is young and has a puppycoat, there is not a lot of maintenance on the coat. But it is important that you brush your puppy regularly to make him confident with grooming. Also check his ears, paws, eyes and open the mouth to check teeth. This is just to make it a normal procedure and could come in handy when going to the vet later on in life.
See picture for puppy slicker brush with protection knobs on the ends.
A growing puppy often has very soft and long fur around his ears. Use a comb to groom this very regularly – every other day – or it will become knotted or matted.
When the puppy coat has made place for the adult coat, regular grooming is needed to keep the coat neat and without mats. Especially the long coated dogs need a good brush at least twice a week. Check for knots behind the ears regularly.
For regular use, we use the ‘large slicker brush’.
The rake is used for the non-sensitive parts: body but not the belly, tail but not the legs. The comb is used for around the ears.
When the dogs change coats, twice a year, and loose their undercoat massively we actively use the ‘double rake’. The rake deals easily with the undercoat. We brush our dogs daily for two weeks with the double rake when they change their coats into summer or winter coat.
Yours drooly - Large slicker brush
Yours drooly - puppy slicker brush
Yours drooly - double rake brush
How to exercise your puppy
Young puppies need plenty of rest and should not be over-exercised while their bones, joints and muscles are still developing. With a growing White Swiss Shepherd, it is important to let your puppy build strength gradually and naturally.
A simple guideline to follow is “one minute per week of age” for structured walks. For example, a 10-week-old puppy can have around 10 minutes of walking at a time. You can take your puppy out several times a day, as long as each outing is kept short and they have plenty of time to rest in between.
The same principle applies to energetic play with people or other dogs. At 10 weeks, for example, keep active play to around 10 minutes at a time. Puppies often don't know when they have had enough, so it is your responsibility to recognize when they are getting tired and give them a break. We recommend crate training not only for sleep but also as their 'safe and rest' place.
Protect Those Growing Joints
During the first year, your puppy's bones and joints are still developing. White Swiss Shepherds are a larger breed, so taking care with high-impact or repetitive activities is particularly important. Until your dog is at least 12 months old, and preferably around 18 months, we recommend avoiding:
- Jogging or running for extended periods.
- Repetitive jumping
- Regularly running up and down stairs
- Jumping in and out of cars or from heights
- High-impact games such as repeated ball or frisbee throwing
- Activities that encourage sudden twisting, turning or awkward landings
These types of activities can place unnecessary stress on developing joints, including the hips and elbows. Instead, encourage gentle play, relaxed walks and plenty of opportunities for your puppy to explore and learn at their own pace.
Once your dog is mature and their joints have fully developed, you can gradually increase their exercise and enjoy longer walks, running, jumping and more active games together.
The key with a growing puppy is quality over quantity. A little exercise, lots of rest, and plenty of mental stimulation will help your puppy develop into a strong, healthy and confident adult dog.
Training
Puppy training is about much more than teaching your puppy to sit or stay. It is also bout socialisation, building a strong bond & trust and learning basic obedience and boundaries that will set your dog up for life.
Be patient and consistent when training your puppy. They are learning a completely new language, and it is your job to gently guide them and help them understand what you are asking. The time and effort you put into training now will save you countless hours later.
We strongly recommend that every new puppy owner enrol in a puppy training course of at least six weeks. Puppy classes are available in most towns and are an excellent way to build your puppy’s confidence, social skills and basic obedience in a controlled environment.
Puppy classes are only the beginning, however. We encourage you to continue training throughout your dog’s life, whether your goal is to compete in showing, agility, obedience or rally-o, or simply to have a well-mannered family companion. A well-socialised and obedient dog is a joy to live with and can confidently enjoy all the experiences life has to offer.
Training Your Shepherd
Swiss Shepherds are among the most intelligent, loyal and willing-to-please breeds. This makes them incredibly rewarding to train and means they can learn quickly when training is consistent and positive.
They are also a high-energy, confident breed that can test boundaries and benefit from having a calm, consistent leader. Without sufficient training, that intelligence and energy can become challenging! Put the work in early and you will reap the rewards for many years to come.
Keep Training Positive
One of the easiest behaviours to teach is “sit.” A simple way to practise is at mealtimes. Hold your puppy’s food bowl, stand calmly and ask them to sit. Don't push or physically place them into position - simply wait patiently. As soon as they sit, say “good sit” and give them their food. After just a few meals, most puppies will quickly begin to understand what “sit” means.
Whatever you are teaching, remember to reward your puppy when they get it right. When they are young, it can be helpful to keep a few tiny treats in your pocket so you can reward good behaviour throughout the day.
Called your puppy and they come running? Treat.
Asked them to “leave” your favourite slipper and they let go? Treat.
Settled calmly when asked? Treat.
You don't need to rely on treats for everything, particularly if you are mindful of how much your puppy is eating. Your voice and praise are just as important. A happy “good boy/girl!” and plenty of affection help build the bond between you and your puppy. Continue using praise throughout your dog’s life - it is one of the simplest and most powerful rewards you can give them.
Don't forget to use your puppy’s play drive as a reward too. If they have a favourite ball or toy, use a short game as a reward after they have done something you asked. Training should be enjoyable for both of you, and wherever possible, always finish a training session on a positive note.
We’re Here to Help
We are not professional dog trainers, but we have many years of hands-on experience with obedience, rally-o, showing and competition, as well as raising and training many puppies. We know and love this breed and are always happy to share our experience.
If you have questions about your puppy’s training or behaviour, please get in touch—we are always happy to offer advice and help where we can.
Socialisation
Once your puppy has had a few days to settle into their new home, one of the most important things you can do is start socialising them. Done well, socialisation during the first two years of life can have a lasting impact on your dog's confidence and ability to cope with the world around them.
Socialisation is not about overwhelming your puppy with as many experiences as possible. It means gently and gradually introducing them to people, animals, places, sounds, surfaces and everyday situations, allowing them to experience new things at their own pace.
Every time your puppy sees, hears, smells or experiences something they haven't encountered before, they are learning about the world. Your role is to provide calm, steady guidance and show them that new experiences are nothing to be afraid of. With positive experiences and your support, your puppy can grow into a confident, friendly and adaptable adult dog.
Everyday Socialisation
You don't need to organise elaborate outings to socialise your puppy. Everyday life provides countless opportunities:
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Visiting friends, family or neighbours
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Meeting new people at home or on walks
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Spending time with friendly, well-socialised dogs
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Meeting children of all ages, particularly if you don't have children at home (supervised at all times)
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Getting used to cars, trucks, bicycles and other traffic
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Learning to travel calmly and safely in the car
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Experiencing different surfaces, environments and sounds
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Exploring new objects, such as a rugby ball, umbrellas or household items
The goal is not for your puppy to interact with everything they see. Sometimes simply watching something new from a safe distance is excellent socialisation.
Start Early - But Keep It Safe
Start socialising your puppy as soon as they come home rather than waiting until they have completed all their vaccinations. Early socialisation is important, but it should be done sensibly. Before your puppy is fully vaccinated, choose safe environments and interact with healthy, fully vaccinated dogs rather than taking them to places where they may be exposed to disease.
Your veterinarian can advise you on what is appropriate for your puppy based on their vaccination schedule and local disease risks.
Slow and Positive
With a White Swiss Shepherd, less can often be more. They are naturally alert and sensitive dogs and can become overwhelmed if they are exposed to too much, too quickly.
You don't need to socialise your puppy every day or introduce them to something new constantly. Two calm, positive experiences are far better than being overwhelmed by ten. Give your puppy plenty of quiet time at home to rest and process everything they have experienced.
Simultaneously, it is also valuable for them to learn they shouldn't engage with everything or one they come across. Learning non reactiveness and listening to you despite being in a high stimulation environment produces a confident and well adjusted dog.
Watch your puppy's body language and allow them to retreat or take a break if they are uncomfortable. Never force them towards something they are frightened of. A bad or overwhelming experience can have a much greater impact than simply not having experienced something yet.
Saying 'no'
Socialisation does not mean your puppy needs to be touched or greeted by everyone they meet. If you notice your puppy becoming uncomfortable or overwhelmed, it is perfectly okay to step in and say:
“No, sorry, my puppy is feeling a little overwhelmed right now.”
It may feel awkward at first, but you don't owe a stranger access to your dog. By calmly stepping in and giving your puppy space, you are teaching them something incredibly important: you are there to listen, protect and support them. This helps build trust and confidence in your relationship.
When you do allow someone to pat your puppy, we recommend asking them to gently stroke under the chin or on the chest, rather than reaching over the top of their head. A hand coming down over a puppy's head can feel intimidating or threatening, whereas approaching from underneath or gently on the chest is generally less overwhelming.
Remember, a successful socialisation experience doesn't always mean your puppy interacts with someone. Sometimes simply watching people from a comfortable distance and remaining relaxed is the perfect experience.
This also applies for if people come to your home and they are anxious or barky. Tell your visitors to simply ignore the puppy, and let the puppy come up to him in their own time. More shy puppies thrive with this method - you will notice they generally don't approach people that demand their attention or touch, and love people that dont make a big deal out of them and stay calm.
If you have the opposite behaviour, like if your puppy is super outgoing and wants to be the center of attention, is jumping up or too energetic, ignoring them is also helpful, aswell as putting in boundaries like teaching them to stay on their mat at first, or being in their crate for the first 10 minutes until they settle.
Continuing as they grow
Socialisation should continue well beyond the first 16 weeks. White Swiss Shepherds can go through several developmental and fear periods as they mature, so continue gently introducing new experiences and supporting your dog through them for at least the first two years of life.
Take it slowly, keep it positive and let your puppy learn at their own pace. Your calm guidance today will help build the confident, well-adjusted companion you want for years to come.
How to toilet train your puppy
Start toilet training from the moment you bring your puppy home. Take your puppy outside to the place where you want them to toilet and, where possible, use the same spot each time. If you don't want your adult dog toileting on the lawn, don't use the lawn as their toilet area when they are a puppy.
The habits your puppy learns during their first few months can be difficult to change later, so it is worth establishing good habits from the beginning.
Take your puppy outside frequently—at least every hour when they are awake, and always after waking up, eating, drinking, playing or becoming particularly active. Take them to their designated toilet area and be patient. Most puppies will need to poo after eating, so give them a little time rather than rushing them back inside.
When your puppy gets it right, praise them immediately after they have finished. Use happy words, affection and/or a small treat to let them know they have done exactly what you wanted. Timing is important: praising too early can distract them from what they are doing, while praising too late may make it difficult for them to understand what they are being rewarded for.
Overnight
At the start, your puppy will likely need to go out during the night too. Once or twice is generally enough times, and shouldn't last more than three weeks of them being home.
Keep nighttime toilet breaks quiet, calm and boring. Take your puppy straight outside to their usual toilet area, give them time to do their business, praise them quietly when they are finished, and then head straight back to bed.
Be mindful that puppies quickly learn that waking you up can lead to attention or playtime. If your puppy is asking to go outside but doesn't actually toilet, it may have turned into an attention game instead. Avoid turning the outing into a game or social time. You want them to learn that nighttime outings are for toileting, not for getting up to play.
As your puppy develops better bladder control, they will gradually become able to sleep for longer without needing to go outside. In the evening, make sure your puppy has a final toilet break before bed.
Some owners choose to use a puppy pad or newspaper in an easy-to-clean area as a temporary backup. However, remember that this can also teach your puppy that toileting indoors is acceptable, so it is best viewed as a short-term solution rather than a replacement for taking them outside.
When your puppy is young, we recommend removing their water bowl in the late evening and overnight, provided they have had free access to fresh water throughout the day. This can help reduce the likelihood of overnight accidents while they are still developing bladder control. Make sure your puppy has had plenty of opportunities to drink during the day and always offer fresh water again first thing in the morning.
Using a Crate
A properly introduced crate can be a very useful tool for toilet training. Most puppies naturally prefer not to soil their sleeping area, so a crate can help them learn to hold on until they are taken outside.
It is important that the crate is appropriately sized and that your puppy is taken outside frequently enough that they are not being asked to hold their bladder for too long.
Be Patient!
Every puppy is different. Some puppies become reliably toilet trained very quickly, while others may still have occasional accidents at six months or beyond. Don't become frustrated—accidents are a normal part of the learning process.
With consistency, patience and plenty of praise, your puppy will get there!
And don't forget to be prepared when you take your puppy visiting. We always carry a few baby wipes and plastic bags with a young puppy, just in case there is an unexpected accident. It's much easier to enjoy your visit when you're prepared for the occasional little mishap!
How to keep your puppy healthy
Vaccination:
We vaccinate our pups at 7 weeks of age. The first vaccination will be done when they're with us, the second and third vaccination is done by the new owner.
If you are planning your pup in a doggy daycare or boarding kennel, he has to be vaccinated for Kennel cough.
Vaccination scheme in Aotearoa - New Zealand recommended by the Veterinarian Association:
7-8 weeks old - 1st vaccination DHP parvo
11-12 weeks old - 2nd vaccination DHP Parvo & 1st vaccination for Lepto
13 weeks - your puppy is fully vaccinated for Parvo and can be taken out everywhere.
15-16 weeks old - 2nd vaccination for Lepto
Please follow the above scheme and do not over-vaccinate your puppy, as this can have a lifelong effect on the immune system.
You can repeat the DHP & Lepto vaccine once every 3 years. (not yearly, that is an outdated vet practice no longer recommended by the NZ Vet Association and can cause immune and allergy issues).
Or you can titre test before repeating the vaccination to see if your dog still has enough protection.
Gut health:
If your puppy has diarrhoea (commonly when your puppy arrives at your home, after a vaccination, diet changes or stressful experiences), you can support your puppy by giving him/her dog pro-biotics for 10 days with his/her food. Micromed or Olive's kitchen have great products for gut health.
Worming:
Puppies and young dogs need to be wormed regularly. Worm your puppies at ages: 3 months, 6 months, 9 months, 12 months. After that twice a year is suffice.
Use a proper wormer like Drontal or if you prefer, there are natural worm treatments available, like apple cider.
Flea-treatment:
We use natural flea treatment and recommend: Bio Pet Fleas & ticks, or Organic neem pet spray or nature pharm flea&skin support. These are all effective preventative products.
However if there are a lot of fleas around your neighbourhood and want to use slightly stronger products you can use 'frontline' or 'revolution' They have ones that are specific for young dogs. Sold online or at the vet. (Bravecto is never recommended).
Important: when your dog has worms or fleas, it is essential to treat all dogs and cats in the house.
How to travel with your puppy
Getting used to car rides is very important, often pups are a bit motion sick and get better by doing short trips often. Don’t forget to bring:
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Collar and lead
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Wet wipes/tishues, bottle with water and plastic bag, in case your pup gets sick in the car
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Car harness, travelcage or towel to put on your lap, for the pup’s transport
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Poo-bags to clean up after your pup when he goes for a toilet stop
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Dog bowl and water when the trip is longer than an hour
When to de-sex your puppy
In the legal binding contract signed before taking the pup home, you declare that you will have the pup neutered or spayed. Female pups spayed between 9 and 18 months of age. Male pups neutered between 12-24 months of age, with a possibility to postpone to 24 months of age (through mutual signed agreement with us).
DO NOT let your vet talk you into spaying or neutering your puppy before 9 months of age for females and 12 months for males!! For some breeds this is okay but not for shepherds!
The chances of your dog getting hips or elbow dysplasia and other health issues will increase greatly when de-sexing too early.
Females generally come into season for the first time between 9 and 12 months. You will have to keep her inside the property and can't walk her in public for 3 weeks when she starts bleeding.
Please conact us if you need guidance.
Council registration and microchip
When the puppy leaves us, he already has been microchipped. You will need to show the council the microchip number and register your pup before 3 months of age. Make sure to keep contact details up to date with your council.
The microchip needs to be registered to your name and contact details in case your pup or dog gets lost.
You can do this in the National database see website:
OR
At the vet (when you go to the vet for the second vaccination ask for the register form). Again make sure that your contact details are up to date at all times!
Registration with DogsNZ (NZKC) - Pedigree papers
We will send you a DogsNZ registration form for you to fill out and send back to us. We will pay and organise the registration.
DogsNZ (NZKC) will process the registration and send the Pedigree Papers of your puppy directly to you.
We will give lifelong breeders support to all our pups and dogs!
Please update us with pictures and stories.
Let us know when you have run into a problem.
Keep us updated when contact details like phone number, address or email address are changing.
And please ALWAYS contact us first if you ever need to re-home your dog!!
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